Day 13

The final 65km to Hoa Binh looked like a relatively simple task. The first 15km put an end to that optimism. A couple of other shorter climbs took everything out of us, but we still made good time to our destination so that we could take a bus the final 70km to Hanoi. Our first bus trip of the tour was off to a great start when our bikes were loaded on to the first bus we flagged down as well as the vehicle having the luxury of air conditioning. The bonus entertainment on the trip included the bus conductor's ability to sleep in any position or on any one's lap. He was briefly awoken to offer a plastic bag to the drunken soldier who vomited in his hands. Curtains make good hand towels in these situations.

Day 12

After the 2 days in 1 odyssey the day before, this day started with a 10km climb. With energy levels down, a break for tofu and greens got us back on top of things, ready for the 30km of downhill into Mai Chau. The scenery on the decent was almost as spectacular as the 50 degree increase in temperature.

Day 11

Another leg of the journey where 2 days of cycling were cramped into 1. We set off early and made fantastic time to Yen Chau where the day was meant to end. So much so, that we arrived too early for lunch and people were waiving us away. After eventually getting fed, we ploughed on and made sensational time to our destination Moc Chau. Our hosts were very nice, (even checking on us every 5 minutes through the night), until they accused us of stealing a towel. As always, things were settled with a 10 minute shouting marathon.

Day 10

This was to be a very testing day for two reasons. The quality of the road somehow diminished turning some parts into impossible sections for 2 wheeled travel as well as the dreaded climb of an 800m gain in altitude in 8km. We were lucky to both make it past the hill as it seemed only 50% of Vietnamese vehicles were up to the challenge. The afternoon heat then kicked in which made our bikes mechanical nightmares, seeing as though every component was struggling with the extra 2 kilos of dirt and mud wedged inside it. We gladly arrived in Son La and found a bigger town that much exceeded our expectations.

Never want to see this road again

Day 9

After our permanent residency for Dien Bien Phu fell through we reluctantly tackled the mud patch that should have been the highway to Tuan Giao. We gained automatic acceptance into the hotel's Presidential Club after we washed our bikes in the bathroom.

Road blocks are excellent for sucking down exhaust fumes

Day 8

This day will best be remembered for the poor dirt road and the 2 enormous climbs in stifling heat. We needed a truck to help us with the second of the 2 climbs to get to the border on time and to make it to Vietnam alive. Dehydration was a definite possibility if we were to continue at the pace required. The border crossing was definitely the most relaxed and abandoned any of us have been to. Our first glimpses of Vietnam were very impressive, but this may have had something to do with the fact that the road was paved and more or less downhill or flat the whole time. We arrived in the resort oasis of Dien Bien Phu before dusk and celebrated the end of Marty and Matt's trip with a hearty feast and some local brew.

Day 7

This was the easiest cycling so far. In saying that, it was still 100km of relatively flat terrain following the river. It took its toll on Matt who needed some fish sauce to revive him from the dead. We finished in the peaceful town of Muang Khua with a staple meal of rice, noodles and beer lao.

Matt rehydrating with fish sauce

Day 6

Another day of impressive scenery and big hills. It will be of no surprise to hear that it was stinking hot again. We encountered a lot more tribal Lao people up in the mountains and Jon proved a hit with them all after purchasing a very practical basket. We ended the day in Oudamxai for a few quite beers with the prospect of an easier 100km the next day.

Day 5

We were delighted with the fact we were able to take a boat from Luang Prabang up river to Nong Kiau. Even better was that we could hire a private speed boat to cut the 8 hour trip to just under 3 hours. Upon getting to the wharf we realised that this was going to be a hairy trip. The bikes were precariously tied in place. The driver started the trip without a helmet, we got a little worried when his helmet came on. Apparently there is no need to slow down when going up rapids that look like small waterfalls in these speed boats. The trip was like a three hour roller coaster ride with beautiful limestone cliffs along the way. Marty in particular had been soaked in the Mekong by the end of the trip.

Bungalows at Nong Kiau

Looking confident in the packing

Helmets. Optional

Pretending to be having fun

The Orphanage

The trip out to the orphanage was very successful and a humbling experience. We would like to thank everyone who sponsored the kids. We can see the money is going to go a long way towards helping maintain the premises as well as providing regular food for them. Every child had a huge smile on their face and really appreciated their special brekky.

Lao orphans teaching Jon to catch

Phan & Sinthana, who helped organise the trip to the orphanage

Day 4

The prospect of riding 130 very difficult kilometres with no place to stop in case we were too tired to continue was not looking good after day 3. The brains behind the CK Express decided to take the first 50km off the trip and hire a truck past some of the first few viscious climbs. We were still faced with a hard 20km climb, however we had the benefit of two picturesque decents and a relatively easy finish into Luang Prabang.

The caped crusader in full flight

Hardest Man in Laos

Day 2 & 3

Day 2 - Another ludicrously hot day. The heat searing off the road drained us and it was hard to remain hydrated with sweat dripping off us for the whole day. We ended in Vang Vieng which is a nice place, but we had little time to soak it up as we were completely drained and were facing a big task the next day.

Day 3 - Vang Vieng to Muang Phu Khun is recommended to be completed in two days. We thought it was a good idea to make up some time and complete the two days into one. We made solid progress in the first 18km and dined for breakfast in a small village while a torrential downpour passed. A fairly steep climb for the next 8km would have been OK if there wasn't another fierce 44km climb ahead. We reached Muang Phu Khun just after dark after beginning at first light. Needless to say we were all spent, but still partied til 8:15pm. The rock hard beds were just what was needed after sitting all day in the rock hard saddle.

I think the weather might be changing

Where's the beach?

Marty getting overtaken on the climb